Invisible router when it's made to AP on the same subnet???

I can't wrap my brain over something. Most google and router advices say to connect LAN port of router#2 to the LAN port of router#1 and in router #2 to disable DHCP server, and give router#2 an IP in the same subnet as router#1, common SSID, common security phrase.
So I tried it. It worked for the internet access just fine. But it was an administrative mess. I could no longer get into the router#2 admin section to change its settings such as WiFi channel or power setting.

Router#2 actually retained its old WAN side IP but it was a pain to get into it. I actually ended up reinstalling the original firmware to fix things.
Is that the way it's supposed to be? If so, I don't like that sort of setup one little bit.

Here's just one illustration of such setup, Linksys has similar information
http://support.netgear.com/app/answ...-wgr614,-or-wgt624-routers-as-an-access-point

Any comments? Suggestions?

 

I've come across a similar situation when adding a router to a home network with a DSL modem. The modem was using NAT and providing the PC with an IP via DHCP. By default the router was using the same IP address range and although it worked it became impossible to access the modem's internal settings. So, I changed the router base IP and DHCP address range and all was well. It sounds like you have a different scenario though using two routers. Why are you needing to do that?

 

Why two routers? WiFi. The house is long, has concrete block walls and hard plaster walls with metal mesh inside. All that chokes the radio signals.
So using a looooong rj45 cord we hooked a second router few rooms away to extend the radio range throughout the house as well as into the far reaches of the garden.
The connection is first (external) router's WAN port to second (internal) router's LAN port and the first router is the gateway. It's working absolutely great for years. Two DHCP servers, two subnets. Both WiFi and when hook a PC or a tablet using a cord. I have FIOS, no modem in the picture, and I ditched their router ages ago, just mine two.

My post was about experimenting with different design. And I was told this AP in the same subnet and no DHCP server is the best way so I tried it and don't like it one bit. I wonder how people cope with lack of access to the extended router. Yet it's a common advice to do it that way.

 

Does it create issues sharing resources across the subnets? I think it's doable between wired devices across the subnets, but I'm not remembering how that's configured. Regarding the wifi I expect you need to use different SSIDs. If you've got a wireless printer on one wouldn't it be unavailable to a laptop connected to the other? I haven't needed to extend range in my home so have never experimented with a dual router setup. I'm guessing resource sharing is the reason people would want to go with one subnet, although that doesn't address using different SSIDs.

 

That is how I set it up. Works good.

 

@Cudni,
You setup the AP method like the Netgear instructions? Are you able to get into the AP router's interface? Because I could not and that's what killed the experiment.

@Victek123,
Yes. File sharing or printer between two subnets is an issue for my laptop, likely firewall related, and does not bother me really. The android tablet when using the AP router subnet has no problems going across the subnets to the laptop pictures and music directories which are the only ones allowed to be shared from the laptop.

 

I think you're right that devices on Ethernet can be configured to communicate across subnets, but what about the wireless devices? Let's say you have a wireless printer connected to one AP with a unique SSID and a laptop connected to the other AP with a different SSID is there a way for the laptop to connect to that printer? I've not tried this and I'm curious if it can be made to work. I occasionally have customers with wireless range issues and this could be a solution, but only if all the devices can communicate transparently. FYI what I've recommended in the past is Powerline Adapters.