My main Windows 7 64 bit Desktop PC seems to be having some sort of hardware failure. I have a backup Windows 7 64 bit Desktop PC that is working fine. Yesterday my internet access on the problem PC started being slow to none. I blamed it on the Windows Updates which I had just installed. I restored an image from a month ago and things seemed to be working better. This morning the problem PC could not access the local network at all. I did an ipconfig and there was some weird IP address: Auto configuration IP4 Address of 169.254.XX.XX I tried doing a ipconfig /release followed by ipconfig /renew but it hung-up. I switched from DHCP to a fixed IP, rebooted but still no network connection. I assume that the problem is either the motherboard or the on-board NIC. I am a 'lazy' troubleshooter. It is about time for a new PC anyway. The problem PC is several years old. Should I? 1. Waste (?) time trying to troubleshoot the problem PC? 2. Buy the parts and build a new PC? 3. Since my PC is primarily used just as a web surf box, maybe take a chance and buy a refurbished Desktop PC? What is your opinion on what I should do? Thanks in Advance.
Option 3 is OUT. I forgot that I have to have my 'SPACE'. I always have to have lots of backup 3.5" platter hard drives (at least 3 or 4) with my main HD being SSD.
Did you reset your router? - Have you checked your bios settings? Does the nic appear in the bios? (Try unpluging everything, power cable included, from the system... press the power button 2-3 and then replug everything start the system and try again.
I restarted the router (The other PC has not had any problems.). The NIC does appear in the BIOS. I did what you said and unplugged the PC, pressed the power button 3 times, followed by plugging in the PC and Powering up. The problem is still there.
I noticed after a few minutes that the exclamation point about no network/internet access had disappeared. I still could not access the network/internet. So I changed from fixed IP to DHCP and rebooted the PC. It seems like the problem has gone away. Was the purpose of pushing the start button three times (unplugged) to discharge possible static electricity buildup on the motherboard? Thanks for your help. I will let you know if the problem comes back. I rebooted again and the problems seems to be gone. At least I got motivated today to make an up-to-date hardware wishlist for a new Desktop PC. I need to switch to Windows 10 sometime in the future.
Yes, sometimes removing static electricity can fix problems like misbehaving or missing nics and audio controllers (once I had my nic disappear entirely from the bios and the OS and removing static electricity fixed it). You're welcome. Panagiotis
@TheKid7 kid, let me tell you something. when you make the switch to 10, you'll ask yourself why you didn't make it sooner. so, do it now, if you can.
TheKid7, If you upgrade Win7 to Win10 you should get a free license for Win10. Then you can delete the partitions and install a fresh Win10. If you desire.
Or he could curse the moment, that he "selected" a laptop/desktop that did not support win 7 drivers. Personally I got sick and tired of the constant forced upgrades. Windows 10 is nothing more nothing less than an eternal beta OS except from the LTSB that the ******* Microsoft does not sell to end users.
I turned the PC on last night and the problem is back. I powered the PC off and opened it up and it was quite dusty inside. I went to several stores to buy a can of duster and I was shocked that no one sells a single can of duster. The first store (BestBuy) that I went to I thought would be the most expensive but they were the cheapest (2 can pack for ~$10). Walmart was the worst in that they sold 4 can packs only. I looked at the website for a local full service PC store (They were closed at the time.) and they wanted more for one can than BestBuy wanted for 2 cans. I will go back to BestBuy this afternoon and get the 2 can pack and do a good dusting job on the PC and see if the problem is still there.
Is it a realtek chipset? They tend to enter in semisleep - lowpower mode if there is no network activity. The easy/fast way to fix it (when it happens) is to deactivate the adapter and activate it again.
I also thought about a NIC card. However, I looked under Device Manager and the next item under the NIC section shows that something is missing/malfunctioning. The above check was made after doing a good dust blow and pressing the start button 3 times before reconnecting the power cable. I looked back the age of the problem PC's motherboard (11/2013). My backup PC's motherboard was purchased about a year later (year 2014). I didn't realize how old my PC's are. Time flies.
I will decide what to do tomorrow on what to do. I will probably buy new components and build a new PC. I will re-use the current LCD monitor, keyboard, mouse, 3.5 inch platter hard drives and speakers. Here is what I am considering (Note: The choice of these components does not match up with a budget web surf box. I am not a gamer.): Case: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119233 Power Supply: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438094 Motherboard: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813145096 CPU (I will need to change this. I just noticed that it is CPU ONLY with no cooler.): https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117823 Here's a Pentium (The next up in price Core i5 does not have build in graphic and I don't want to buy a video card: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117875 Well maybe I should get the Core i5 with integrated graphics. I will decide soon: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?reviews=all&Item=N82E16819117959 Memory: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231890 M.2 SSD Drive: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA12K7D04885 Backup Hard Drive(s) (Quantity of 1 to 3 in the future. I prefer reliability over speed.): https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822231535
TheKid7, Good hardware. Just a comment about that great Samsung M.2 SSD and your MB. You will need to install Win10 in UEFI mode. Legacy does not support PCIe Boot. That should be no problem.
@TheKid7 maximize your ram to 16gb (or more depending on your needs). their prices finally dropped after 2 years. https://www.pcgamer.com/ram-prices-are-finally-cheap-again/ Panagiotis
I placed the order today. Here is what I ordered: M.2 SSD: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147741 RAM 16 GB: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820232181 CPU: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117826 Motherboard: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813145096 Case: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119233 Power Supply: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438094 Backup Hard Drive: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822231535
My new PC has been up and running for several days now. No issues so far. I decided to add two more of the same 4TB Backup Platter Hard Drives. Now I have a total of three (3) 4TB Backup Platter Hard Drives. I have not finished installing software (i.e., MS Office, etc.).
I purchased a new Intel PCI NIC card a few days ago. I uninstalled the Realtek Software and Drivers followed by Disabling the onboard Realtek NIC. I then installed the Intel PCI NIC and I am back in business now. I guess that the problem was the onboard Realtek NIC. Now, I have another 'spare' PC.