SSD Just a Tad Too Warm

Hello everyone. The NVMe SSD is a Samsung 120 gb of which 117 gb is available for Windows. Of that, 75% is free. The drive is consistently running 6-10 degrees warmer than everything else, except the PCH. This is avg. 39-44 deg. C on a desktop--idle. Cores, mainboard and GPU in high 20s-low 30s. Reads/writes are modest. I removed the Intel Rapid Storage Technology software, also the internal Western Digital storage drive. Negligible. As far as browser, I had to undo Internet Explorer's "clear browsing on exit" due to the ESENT errors/warnings every time it's closed. Small drive means curtailing browser installations and the stuff they generate. Tried aiming a fan in the general direction and the machine spits WHEA logger warnings.

The above temp range is considered "normal" but not buying it fully, not when a similar setup had the same SSD right on par with the CPU temps. Speccy doesn't detect the temp at all but HWINFO64, CPUID and CrystalDiskMark do and are all in agreement. Is there anything like firmware I should consider on the Samsung site?

Thanks, this has been an irritating little gnat-like issue.

plat

Edited on 8/22/2917 to remove incorrect info about SSD location.

 

I buy it. 44°C is cool, not even warm.

You did not state the exact model number but note these specs for a similar device where it says operating temperature is 32°F - 158°F. That's 0°C to 70°C. You are not even close. And even then, it says the device is "Temperature proof" which means (short of fire or melting) damage will not occur if it gets hot.

Remember, the memory devices on a SSD are very similar in construction and materials to CPUs and they can easily hit 80°C, 90°C or hotter without any damage.

 

OK, I accept this. The similar device you linked is actually a much higher end product, I will have to think about this.

Thank you, @Bill_Bright.

Edited to remove incorrect info about SSD location.

 

You can think about it, but in reality, what can you do? All you really can do is make sure the interior is clean of heat trapping dust. You can ensure the case interior is tidy with good cable management. You can ensure you have a good "front-to-rear" flow of cool air through the case, adding another case fan, if necessary. But considering your other temps look good, I don't see adding another case fan is necessary.

 

Here is an image that depicts the location of the SSD (it looks more like a memory module ): I want to see if I can tease one section of bound cable plus two others more out of the way because the SSD is hemmed in, especially by the shelf of the GPU directly above it. This is a name-brand machine, not self built so I have to be ultra careful. The cables are otherwise really well-managed not only for air flow but to provide an unobstructed view of the inside. My interior is not quite as open and airy as below image (my GPU is later model and he must have done additional management) but this is otherwise a decent facsimile.
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Credit: Miguel_Lenovo. Purple arrow (mine) shows the NVMe SSD, green (mine) shows the storage HDD which I've removed permanently. There are bound cables in between the two arrows I want to manage further to see if that improves the temp, especially since there's nothing in the drive caddy now.

One thing if you (or someone) has a minute. Dust is worse to me than heat, and the computer is physically in another location to reduce risk of food/drink/dirt exposure. Do you find that one of those mini vacuums is a good investment? As opposed to a $1.99 can of compressed air that sprays cold liquid and shoots the nozzle thing into outer space right in the middle of using it?

 

This is actually in error. The other setup was SATA but the same storage capacity.

Edit: Doesn't seem to be a brand name, just a string. Maybe generic Samsung. Also, disregard the part in initial post about "moving" anything anywhere, clearly not quite educated on this type of SSD. I edited that portion. When I first got this thing a while ago, I opened the side panel--where's the SSD?. Then closed it back up and forgot about it. Now using it on a more consistent basis and learning this is a different animal.

 

I don't distinguish between the two. If you go back through my posts, you will see I typically say, "heat-trapping dust". And if you note the last line in my sig, I take heat seriously.

But at the same time, I am not caught up in the misguided concept that cooler is always better. That is just NOT true! It is essential electronics be properly cooled - no doubt about that. But electronics are designed to operate within a "normal operating range". There is nothing to suggest a CPU, for example, will be more stable, perform better, or last longer if run at 30°C instead of 55°C as 55°C is still safely within its "normal operating range". Again, as for your SSD, 42°C is great.

Here's my canned text on vacuums, canned dusting gas, and air compressors:

I do not recommend the use of a vacuum cleaner inside the case as there is a significant potential for destruction from ESD. As the dust and air particles zoom past and crash into the nozzle end (especially with plastic nozzles) extremely high potentials of static electricity can build up in the nozzle. And when the nozzle comes in to close proximity to ESD sensitive devices, such as the CPU, GPU, memory modules and other high density integrated circuits (ICs or "chips"), that static can easily be discharged through the device, totally destroying it - often without the user even knowing a discharge occurred.

For these reasons, vacuuming is NEVER preferred. Taking the computer outside is always better. If it is pouring down rain, and taking it outside is not practical, you can use a vacuum, but EXTRA care must be taken.

1. Unplug the computer from the wall.
2. Touch bare metal of the case interior to discharge any static in your body, and most importantly, to put you and the computer "at the same potential".
3. Wrap your hand around the nozzle end and extend a pointed finger out past the nozzle.
4. Plant extended finger on to bare metal of the case interior when reaching in with the nozzle to prevent the discharge and build-up of static.
5. Use a clean, soft, natural bristle (not synthetic) dusting or paint brush to gently persuade the dust towards the nozzle.
6. Keep that finger planted, and immediately replant it onto bare metal when re-positioning the nozzle.
7. Better yet, wait for it to stop raining, then use an air compressor or cans of dusting gas.

Note, like many electronics repair facilities, I use an air compressor and a soft, natural bristle paint brush in (or rather, outside) my shop to blast out electronics all the time. HOWEVER - there are special considerations that MUST be adhered to when using an air compressor on electronics.

1. The compressing process WILL create condensation inside the tank. This condensation collects on the walls of the tank, then runs down to the bottom. If allowed to build up, nasty, rusty water particles can be spewed onto your electronics - never good. So periodic draining is required and all air compressors have a pitcock valve on the bottom for this purpose.
2. Ensure the compressor is an "oil-less" type.
3. I prefer upright compressors to keep any condensation way down at the bottom.
4. ALWAYS - as in EVERY SINGLE TIME - use a inline moisture and particulate filter when cleaning electronics (or air-brush painting birthday cakes or faces).
5. Never see how fast you can make a fan spin - you can easily exceed design limits and destroy the bearings (I use wooden glue/Popsicle sticks to hold the blades stationary).

Either way, do it outside. No need to blast that heat-trapping dust, dander, microscopic critters that eat that dander, and the microscopic "stuff" those critters "excrete" and leave behind, back into your room, computer, or lungs.

It should be noted those cans of dusting gas do NOT contain "air". Instead, they contain difluoroethane or similar gas, typically used as refrigerants and these gases are extremely hazardous if inhaled. In extreme cases, it can damage the central nervous system, or even be fatal. So use in a well ventilated area or better yet, outside. Note in some jurisdictions, these are controlled substances and sold in a controlled manner, similar to cans of spray paint to [hopefully] dissuade “huffing”.

Finally, make sure any case you buy in the future has a removable, washable air filter. These, as a minimum, cut in half the number of times you need break down the computer to lug outside to blast out the heat-trapping dust from the interior.

 

OK, I read thru your last post, there is valuable info in there so I bookmarked it. At this point, I'm still in the process of straightening out a warranty mess-up (only a few weeks?! ) with Lenovo, so this has seriously limited much use of the machine, especially re: messing around with the interior. It's more clear that it's a mountain/molehill thing with the SSD temp but I still need to manage things a bit and will see if that does anything. Not expecting miracles just going by the location. .

Insofar as your guide on cleaning, I'd be lugging this creature outside to a sidewalk full of cigarette butts and dog-doo, not good, so will have to come up with an alternative there. Pretty neat! I really thank you for your time and the valuable information!

plat

 

#6 42°C looks normal. Not too cold and not too hot.
I wouldn't worry about this temperature, even if it reaches 50°C

 

These SSDs are not cheap. For example: a "budget" 512gb NVMe is already at least twice the cosr of a budget 500gb SATA counterpart. Interesting development in hardware.

http://www.pcgamer.com/best-nvme-ssds/

 

No, they are not cheap but they are still starting out much cheaper than hard drives did.