Heat sink fell off of North Bridge

Hi, I installed a stick of RAM in my sister's computer tonight and I noticed it had a loose heat sink. I don't know what a North Bridge is, I'm only going by the info at this link. It is the square aluminum heat sink just to the lower right of CPU. According to the info it says Chipset "North Bridge" SiS760. If you look closely at the picture, you can see a metal bar on top of the heat sink that goes to a U-shaped clip that helps hold the heat sink in place. This clip was laying in the bottom of the case. The metal bar/spring runs from a clip on the upper right hand corner, down through the heat sink and to another clip to the lower left hand corner of the heat sink. I took the heat sink off because it was just hanging there. Is this able to be fixed? Are the U-shaped clips necessary to hold it in place? Can this be fixed without removing the MB?

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/...657&lc=en&cc=us&dlc=en&product=501310&lang=en

Thanks,
innerpeace

 

Ok, after a little searching. It's been mentioned that thermal tape might work. Does anyone have any experience with using thermal tape? There is another link that involves replacing the hooks on the motherboard with closed loops made from paper clips. http://www.overclockers.com/tips1180/

 

Hi Eagle Creek, Thanks for your reply and the description of what a North Bridge does. The whole thing is really hard to explain. The motherboard has 2 U-shaped clips diagonal from each other that holds a metal spring clip that keeps the heat sink in place. One of the U-shaped clips fell out. From searching, it looks like they are soldered to the motherboard. If you look in the overclockers link that I posted, you will see what I mean when i say U-shaped clip.

I've also read that there is a thermal adhesive that might work to hold the weight of the heat sink without using the metal spring clip. I would need input about this because if the heatsink were to fall off, it could short circuit whatever is below it.

 

innerpeace,

I don't have any experience with thermal tape but I would be concerned that gravity would win in the end since the mobo is probably mounted vertically in the case.

If it was me, I would probably add an additional small fan to the case and situate it so it blows directly on the northbridge and out toward the back of the case. If possible you might try getting temperature readings from the northbridge before and after installation of the fan and see what difference it makes.

You can check newegg.com and many other places for fans, etc.

Good luck.

 

Would use the thermal tape or paste to ensure best conductivity between GPU and sink,if you have any ,then refix the heatsink with the clips-these clips are always awkward,but have to apply pressure so conductivity results.
You probably will find inset holes somewhere to receive one end of the clips-unlikely to have been soldered

 

If you cant get the hooks fixed and think thermal tape may be too weak, consider using thermal epoxy.

Just be warned that it acts like glue, so that heatsink will be fixed to the northbridge.

 

Thanks everyone . Eagle Creek, that bottom left picture is what I'm talking about. See that thin metal paper clip sized wire holding the heat sink in place. It's running through the middle of it which you can't see.

I might have a solution. I think this is what WSFuser was suggesting. There are 2 different kinds of Artic Silver thermal adhesives. From the reviews, it is permanent and will hold up to gravity no bigger than the heat sink is. What do you think?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835100013 (I think this stuff would be easiest as it's non conductive)
-or-
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835100005

 

Thanks, I don't know either. One of the reviews of the adhesive stated that when he tried to remove a heatsink later, part of the chip broke off and not the area that was bonded. That would be similar to a weld.

By the way, when I mentioned the picture in the lower left hand corner, the pics keeps shuffling from left to right. To be clear, it's the gunmetal colored heat sink that is spiked looking. I'm mentioning this in case someone searches for the same problem.

Cheers

 

Try inserting the end of the clips into the hole at the position shown in the pic.,where the clipleg is exiting,usually the ends are angled so need shoving in-then re-lock the heatsink.

 

sounds like the clip sprung out of its hole.

 

I was looking at your picture of the NB trying to see if there were holes to mount a third party NB cooler. These are measured from hole to hole diagonally. The Enzotech works real well.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=197&products_id=23200&zenid=04b6d263f51bb1d4341c75520b23c063

If there are no holes you really don't have much of a choice but to use something like Artic Alumina so it will never come off but you have to make sure you don't put too much on (can result in more heat) and not not too little either cuz once you put in on it's a pain to get off. It's not impossible, but it can be a headache when you have to take it off for any reason so it's important to get it on the first shot.


If you need to remove it again you can set up Prime95 and run it at full load for a bit and it should come off easily. I have seen guys use hair dryers (and some burnt mobo's) the freezer, steam. If for any reason you need to some what pry, make sure you don't scratch the chip

You will need some Artic Clean Thermal Material Remover and Surface Purifier to remove what ever is on there already. Every bit has to removed before the new goop is applied. Some folks say just to use alcohol but it doesn't work near as well as this. A small piece of a 100% cotton works excellent a long with the Artic Clean to wipe and clean everything off. In this link Artic Alumina is $2.99, Artic Clean $5.95.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=58&zenid=04b6d263f51bb1d4341c75520b23c063

 

I still use 99% pure Isopropyl Alcohol it alot cheaper and can get easier. Does the job great.

 

I usually use a bit of local beer-pretty potent! seems to keep the chip happy too.

 

Yes, but the hole or the U-clip popped out of the motherboard. In this link I posted above, if you look at the red circled lines in the 2nd pic, it shows how the u-clips are normally attached to the motherboard. If you look in the 4th pic, the u-clips are clearly shown. The pic labels them as motherboard loops.

@ Rilla927, Thank you, I'm glad to hear from someone who has used the adhesive. I will follow your advice and hopefully I won't screw it up. I have heard some say that alcohol leaves a residue behind, but many use it anyways. Since it's not my computer, I will probably use the alcohol LOL.

 

just don't drink it when you do.

 

you really have to remove your motherboard to feed the clip back. on some boards now with diagonal mounting they usually plastic studs with springs that you can push down and it forces it way in and widens to hold it in place. in all this time you could of removed the board and put it back it be good practice for your next build.

pure isopropyl alcohol doesn't leave a residue it evaporates to nothing. if it doesn't it's because theres other chemicals in it like acetone. over there they sell rubbing alcohol which is ony 70% isopropyl alcohol. which they wrongly call pure isopropyl alcohol. this isn't the proper stuff. incidentally Akasa do a good one called Tim Remove. in fact tape head cleaner does a fine job.

 

Yikes, I just checked the bottle of isopropyl alcohol I have and it's only 50%. I'm sure I can find 99% somewhere.

I really don't want to remove her MB. I couldn't live with the guilt. Especially since I talked her into getting a 512MB stick of RAM so she now has 704MB. Her PC doesn't even have a case fan.

 

Hello,

Most curiously, my nb fan died yesterday, too! There was no apparent influence on the chip (no additional heating), but I couldn't bear the chance so I tried to replace it.

What a nightmare ... I had to break both pins to remove it. Then, I put in a new thermaltake thingie - it's a beast, it sounds like an airplane taking off.

I also replaced the forward case fan (120mm) with a new arctic cooling one. It works fine and the HDs do not heat any more than before, but SpeedFan now does not read it for some reason ...

Oh woes!

I had to shut down this particular comp the first time since June 2006 ...

Mrk

 

Maybe its only a two wire fan (thus missing the third wire for speed sensing).