Can someone suggest me a great cooling cpu cooler that is not very expensive.

I tried and and chose auto optimize fan in the bios. the pc set it itself. Although the bios is fully unlocked and you can set the fan curves and also under aisuite I chose fan expert 2 so after etsting the fans it chose what to set. and that still has it spinning high around 3000 rpm all the time.

 

well I re-did using the fan expert optimizing setting and it now seta new range which is lower then before. right now the cpu fan is 1000rpm.

 

That video shows 73-77° for the Cool Moon (which may not be exactly the same as the YUOYING) while you report 76.75°. So you should decide whether or not to stick with your known and trusted entity or a one YouTube wonder for no advantage.

Perhaps you might have to consider a non-RGB in order to get one that cools with greater efficiency at lower speeds. Look cool vs be cool. Most makers are now selling blacked out models.

I'll add to Tyrizian's posts in a mention that Micro-ATX case builds aren't all that conducive to the best air cooling outcomes, with water cooling requiring meticulous designing and expert assembly.

IMHO, you should dump those two top fans.

At the very least, cover that gap above the two front fans (front.lpg).

Cheers.

 

thx. for reply.

 

Sorry but that makes no sense. Whether or not your home is dusty has no bearing on whether your case is setup with positive or negative pressure. That is determined strictly by how your fans are configured.

But I will say this, if your environment is dusty, you definitely want positive pressure (more air being pushed in with intake fans than being pulled out by exhaust fans). Negative pressure creates a small vacuum inside the case. That results in dusty air being pulled in through every crack and crevice and worse, through your optical drive (if you have one) and through all your connector ports too. You don't want that. For one, it causes more heat-trapping dust to accumulate inside the case, and for another, it causes your USB, graphics, audio and other ports, and their electrical contacts to get gummed up with dust.

Remember, dust is not just tiny dirt particles. In fact, "house dust" consists in large part of hair, dead, oily skin (dander) from us humans and pets, microscopic critters that eat dander, and the microscopic poop those critters leave behind. All that "organic" matter is oily and sticky and grabs onto other "things" that float in the air. That oily stuff then sticks to the ports and the electrical contacts in those ports. So I say again, you don't want that!

 

Oh. What you say makes sense. SO I can invert the top fans from exost to intake. So making 4 intake and one back exost. Is that good or do you have any other suggestion. right now my system has 2 front intake fans and 3 exost (2 top and 1 back) fans. So how would you suggest I change it and set it up to have the best cooling and air-flow with the least dust and particular matter compiling. Thanks in advance.

 

If each fan is, for example 40 CFM, right now you have two fans blowing in 80 CFM and three fans blowing out 120 CFM meaning 40 CFM are trying to get sucked in from every opening in your case. This is assuming that all your combined openings are capable of passing all that air.

"making 4 intake and one back exost" 160 CFM in and 40 CFM out? At this point we're in the territory of the detriment that pressure will have on that one fan. Pressure build ups are exponential; small changes have big effects.

Again, IMHO, you should dump the two top fans. 40 CFM will then try to exhaust from every opening in your case. This is you best scenario given your current hardware inventory.

Alternatively, software can be used to adjust the fan speeds. Like full speed for the two front fans and the three exhaust fans each at 60% so you can preserve your LED esthetics. But you haven't yet mentioned if you have that control over all your fans.

That huge opening above your front fans isn't contributing anything at all to an efficient air flow whether the strategy is positive or negative case pressure.

 

I have ai suite which allows tuning of fans. I used the 'Fan Tuning" option of it and it analyzed all the fans and auto set them. Also the motherboard has full fan tuning option too. I just do not know how to set with fans and do not want to mess them. here the suite i have included a pic of it. the ai suite detected only the cpu fan and the chasis fans are unknown. Anyway i do not know how to tweak them individualy. Also the front does not have the screw points for 3 fans to fit so I had to use 2. I can not do anything about the top. I do not think black tapes or masking tapes stick to it. so all the 5 fans are of the same brand and 120mm. So what is my options without messing with bios? So would taking the top 240mm fans out fix the issue? or should I invert them?
my fan tweaking software:

 

here is the fan control option in my BIOS. any suggestion on how to set it up

 

I did some research and studying on fans and air pressure. the research said a neutral pressure with a slight positive is the best. here is from what I watch and read I figured for my case. it seems a fan behind a mesh reduced it by 1/2.
So right now I have 2 from mesh fans intakes (2x0.5=1) and 2 mesh exost at top + 1 non-mesh back exost (0.5+(2x0.5)=1.5): so right now my 1:1.5 ration is negative.
now if I keep the front mesh fans as intakes (1) and one of the top mesh fan intake (0.5) and the other a mesh exost (0.5) and the back exost fan (1): so it will be 1.5:1.5 ratio and neutral
the last would be 2 fron and 2 top mesh intakes (4x0.5=2) and 1 back exost (1): making 2:1 a positive.
Now based on what I read the best option is the neutral? Now if I take the top 2 fan out the I would have a 1:1 ration which is neutral similar to the second option I mentioned above.

 

I did to make it positive pressure by changing the top fans. Now the motherboard temp. has climed from in the 20sC to in the 30sC. Showing that a positive pressure does make the system hotter. No change in the CPU temp from before.

 

The CPU profile is adequate but I would slide the top "dot" over to 55°.

Your BIOS indicates it recognizes only your chassis fan 1, whichever one that is of the five you have, while fan 2, whichever one that is, is N/A . So, you have no control of all five fans.

As well, your "ai suite" found fan 1 at 1569 RPM and fan 2 at... zero. So it did not analyze "all the fans and auto set them."

You are trying to manipulate air flow in a box having a volume of 0.5-0.6 cubic feet with a fan set capable of moving 200 CFM (at my guessing of 40 CFM fans). You might be running five 60 CFM fans. Hope not. Even five 20 CFM fans is unnecessary.

Case manufacturers aren't using filter materials and/or case mesh construction that borks its fans by 1/2. In fact, they tout their engineering prowess as, for example, Lian Li's "LANCOOL II MESH Performance" or Fractal's "Iconic Angular Mesh." Your struggles and conclusions using the mesh to influence air flow are unfortunate and misplaced. Your case mesh is nowhere near reducing your fan CFMs by 1/2, if at all. I already asked what your case is in #14 as did Tyrizan in #13. Unanswered.

Have you tried posting up at https://forums.tomshardware.com/ ?

Keep checking back here, of course, but I've already made all the suggestions I can offer in my post #32 and this post is my last here. Maybe Tyrizan might chime in if you answer his question.

Finally, for the protection you seek to "push this cpu to full or play demanding games or apps" (your post #5), that $340 CPU (#7) stuffed in a Mini-ITX case really needs a two fan AIO water cooler.

Good luck!!