I use Process Lasso, so it depends on whether I'm using my machine or not. At some point it gets set back to Balanced though, probably by Windows.
I realised that 'Power Saver' plan had disappeared from my laptop and although it didn't really bother me as I don't use it, I found this article on how to restore missing power plans. https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/110372-restore-missing-default-power-plans-windows-10-a.html OPTION ONE worked to restore 'Power Saver' on that laptop.
Balanced, which gives me about 7 hr. on my old Acer with a SSD (compared to 3 hr. with the original HDD). The battery charges to 87% of orig. capacity after 7 years.
Have you run a test which shows that battery has 7% of the original capacity, or does it only charge to 87%.
Some default: Code: root@xyz:~# cat /sys/devices/system/cpu/cpu0/cpufreq/scaling_driver intel_cpufreq root@xyz:~# cat /sys/devices/system/cpu/cpu0/cpufreq/scaling_governor schedutil Fun things: on Linux laptop performance governor may, in some situations, provide better battery life than ondemand. On Windows laptop balanced sometimes gives better performance than high performance in games, because high performance quicker leads to hardware-controller CPU throtling.
That is true, but keep in mind that most gamers would most likely already be using various techniques to keep the heat buildup to a minimum. For example, I have ultimate performance mode enabled, but during normal use, I always keep my laptop's rear end raised above the table. This not only keeps the laptop cool, but also puts the keyboard in a perfect angle to type. And when I game, I add a small table fan too the mix, pointed at the rear of the laptop, blowing air from one side. With the laptop already raised from the rear, this does an excellent job in whisking away the heat, preventing my laptop from ever reaching a heat level where it needs throttling.
@Raza0007 it certainly depends on laptop model etc too For my friend additional pad with external fan didn't helped. What helped was slight manual decrease in max CPU performance somewhere 90-98%, I dont recall exact value
Laptop cooling pads have never worked for me as well. I use a small table fan, it does a much better job of blowing the heat away and keeping the entire Laptop's chassis cool.
OK, I followed an online guide b/c there was no "ultimate performance" option so I had to use cmd to get it. Doesn't do much subjectively on here. But I'll give it a try next time I run some benchmarks that involve the cpu. But otherwise, it's still the Balanced power plan.
I mentioned earlier that I am not an expert in Power Plans, but after writing my initial post, I was able to do some research in this area. I believe one of the most important difference between the plans is the "Processor Power Management" options that includes the core parking engine, performance state engine and platform specific controls. See the following link: https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/customize/power-settings/configure-processor-power-management-options So lets take the "CPMaxcores" options from the above page as an example. https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/customize/power-settings/options-for-core-parking-cpmaxcores This options tells the OS the maximum number of cores that can be in an un-parked state at the same time. The setting depends on the power plan in operation. So lets suppose the power plan you have selected has a setting of 80 for CPMaxcores, and you have a 10 core CPU. That means Windows will not allow more than 8 cores to come online at the same time. Thus the power plan is actually restricting performance to save some battery power, which defeats the purpose of buying a 10 core machine. By the way, this particular CPMaxcores setting has been depreciated and Windows now allows the processor logic to control the number of cores that are parked or un-parked. I could not find the exact date when this option was depreciated, but it was included with Windows 10, and before being deprecated it was in operation. Not to mention the fact that it was in operation in Windows 8.1/8 and 7. There are others options under PPM that are still in effect, and by choosing a lower power plan, one might be unintentionally preventing one's PC from reaching its full potential. Also OEM's can configure their own power plans, and name them with an alias to masquerade as one of the Windows built-in power plans, so be careful about them. See this link https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/customize/power-settings/configure-power-settings?source=recommendations So even though one may not notice an immediate difference between the plans, the link I quoted in my post#18 from Microsoft clearly states that the developers designed the ultimate performance plan to extract maximum performance from the PC. They consider it to be higher than the high performance plan. It is meant for running demanding workloads, and is meant for those who want absolute maximum performance out of their PC's. Since I fall in this category, I choose the ultimate performance plan.
Wow, thanks very much for this tutorial. For one thing, didn't know there was a Game Profile--surely this makes things a LOT easier to configure. One of the reasons why I shy away from running High/Ultimate Performance full-time is the heat generated (my machine is a little over one foot away from my chair w/exhaust facing my desk) and consequently, the electric bill gets a little gnarly. I have to figure out a better internal cooling arrangement--things go down fully 9-10 deg C if I take the glass side-panel off. But that's not feasible for a long-term solution. It's a normal-sized case but the gpu is a large chonk in there and the fans don't kick in until 65 deg C, which is my preference.
You are welcome. I wish I knew the individual detailed settings for each power plan, but that information is either not available online, or is very hard to find. That seems like a good idea. You should always use the power plan that works for you. If a higher power plan is generating too much heat, then it is not recommended at all, as too much heat will shorten the life span of the individual components in your PC.
Since both of you are using Windows, the built-in "powercfg /batteryreport" command is very useful. It does not have a nice GUI, but generates a fairly readable HTML report. Important items in the report are "Usage History" and "Battery Capacity History". It generates a weekly history of both for over a year, and it is useful to see trends like how much capacity your battery loses per week, and you can correlate it with the usage history for that time frame. Command Prompt (Admin) cd C:\ powercfg /batteryreport This will generate a "battery-report.html" file in your root C drive.